Saturday, Aug. 28, 2004 - 8:56 p.m.
Saturday night and things are cranking along....
Amazing trip and almost impossible to catalog. I've flown three times on the YAK 42,an interesting plane that is the workhorse of the LVIV Air Fleet. We've flown in three different versions. The first one was the oldest-8.5 inches of leg room (the other two we flew in had upped the leg room to 12 inches.) This wouldn't be so bad except for the fact that the overhead doors for baggage were not springloaded so you need your head to hold up the door. So, you prop the door on your noggin and put your bag in and back off and let the door fall. The interesting thing is that you need to be at least 6 feet tall to hold the door open with your head, but then you're too tall for the seat...the only other solution would be for people to cooperate, but I don't see that happening too often.
The Soviet system has created a country that is devoid of manners on public modes of transportation. There is never an "excuse me" just a pause behind the person, a brief glance to see if the person will move and then a gentle or not so gentle shove to get you the heck out of the way.
There is a fondness here for tomatoes, cucumbers and onions. Every, yes every meal, starts with this fundamental trio of foods. It's like the "trinity" in Louisiana cooking. I am tired of them though occasionaly I get surpised by a new recipe...
In Crimea I checked out the palace where the Yalta conference was held as well as Bakchasaray, a Tatar Palace. There is such a richness of history here it blows me away. Saw Czar Nicholas' palace as well. It's amazing the richness of these folk.
Swam in the Black Sea. The salinity is close to human pH because you can open your eyes in the sea and it does not sting one bit.
Today I bought souvenirs in the Kyivan Open Air Market by St. Andrew's church. Bartering is a way of life here. I picked up some great stuff for friends and family alike.
Kyiv is a Western city-the dress, the behavior is very European and doesn't feel as much of a "throwback" as does Lviv. Ukraine is truly made up of people who are struggling to create an identity, and they intensely want to be part of the world at large. They are still anchored to the ways of the past systems that keep them from reaching their full potential. But Ukraine is finding its way. Today when we drove into Kyiv there was a sign at the entrance of the city that said, "Ukraine will Succeed!" Of this I have no doubt.
I mentioned the women of Ukraine in my first diary entry and I forgot to add something else that women here like to have: red hair; dark maroon-ish red, almost like rust or freshly tanned leather. It is quite common.
The women here are extremely pretty (I can hear a few folks saying, "Sure Mike, You always think women are pretty"-yeah but there's more to it here) Women here like being women. They're not pushovers by any means, and they're not necessaruly suzie homemakers, but they enjoy being women. They are often seen walking down streets together arm in arm, long hair blowing in the breeze, huddling together and laughing, sharing stories. They let their hair grow and big thick braids are very common. It's almost like, in some ways, they are still *girls* at heart. They "play" together. There is not the seriousness that preoccupies many American women. This gives a certain vulnerableness that's extremely enchanting. Small wonder that female Ukrainian folk creatures are enchantresses.
To top it all off, there is an appreciation for beauty in the Ukrainian psyche (there's a good book on this by the way if anyone wants the name I'll get it for you). Women are at the heart of this recognition of beauty--they sense it. Hence they try to enhance it and this includes themselves. It is wonderful to look at, even without sexual overtones. They are simply beautiful: long legs, hourglass shapes, curvy breasts, bewitching eyes, and the Slavic features that my Ukrainian genes no doubt have a predilection for. Objectively though, there is something to the beauty of these women. Throughout history Ukrainian women have been taken as wives in the Royal Courts of Europe. I don't believe this was an accident.
Current day, 54 percent of the population of Ukraine is female and this leads to the unfortunate absence of eligible men and results in the sex trade within Western Europe. There are some for which change is still to painfully slow and they're willing to do anything to get out. I wish I could shake some of these people and tell them that we in the US have been trying to get it right for over 200 years and we still don't have it!!!!
When in Lviv, I met both my mom's and dad's families that are still here. It was amazing to see the resemblance in the features...My mom's old village is much different-it was burned down during WWII, but the well was still there as were a few landmarks. It was very touching. We visited the church there-it was built on the foundation of the old church. There is much division still in the churches; many people don't see it as scandal-they simply see it as the way it is.....
I could say more but it's probably time to wrap up this entry. Tomorrow is another day and hopefully the weather holds out.
I hear dance music pumping through the ceiling here. Time to sign off.
Thanks everyone, for your thoughts and prayers while I'm on the road-they're appreciated (please keep them coming-I'm sure you all know of the craziness with the Russian airlines. It's a ways away from us but still unsettling.)
~peace~
plish
